Saturday, June 25, 2011

Zelany Holidays

 Two weekends (better late than never) ago we went to Dobrovody, the village where Yarusia was born to celebrate the Zelany (green) holidays with her two aging aunts. As the village also celebrates their 'Prasnyk' or church name day on this weekend we had two reasons to celebrate.  Most celebrations are centered around the dining room table with eating and drinking (among some) lasting late into the night.
Traditionally, Zelany Cviat or Green Holidays  marked the end of spring and the beginning of summer and to celebrate this time the people decorate their entryways with greenery, usually with branches from trees.  At one time these were meant to be a place for the spirits of their ancestors to rest when they come to visit.



 Now very few people know why they decorate their homes but it is a tradition that almost everyone maintains throughout Ukraine.
An interesting word that is used to describe the greenery is 'May' and to decorate is called 'Maying '.  At one time I thought that this was a borrowing from the west but I'm not so sure. There are numerous words using the prefex May such as Maydan for village square and maynae which means to be covered in leaves. interesting!
 The next day we went to Zarvanetsia which was about a half hours drive from Dobrovody.
Zarvanetsia is a holy site where the Mother of God  appeared to a monk in the 13th century.  He found a miracle working Icon near a spring and decided to built a chapel to house it. From that time the Icon has had several miracles attributed to it.  In 1867 the Icon was crowned by Pope Pius IX and the village of Zarvanetsia was granted the status of sanctuary.
Today there is great interest by the Ukrainian Catholic faithful as well as the Ukrainian diaspora in building the site into a world reknown center.



along the road to the church

the usual trinkets for sale




getting holy water from the spring
the fountain

view from the front
entrance to the 'Stations of the Cross'
Stations of the Cross (under construction)

entrance to the Mother of God chapel



 Sorry for the abrupt change but village life seldom allows for such niceties.
butchering time

crops among the poppy fields ?

Friday, June 10, 2011

Spring retreat in the Carpathians.



Last weekend I attended a retreat and hiking trip into the Carpathians. The retreat was located near the village of Shepit about 40 km's south and west of Kolomaya.
This was more a getaway and relax weekend but it did include some discusions and lectures on  various subjects including; a talk by Vasyl Kobelukh a Professor of history and expert on Sanscrit, he spoke on the similatities of Ukrainian and Sanscrit languages. Another keynote speaker was Maria Chumara an ethnographer, philosopher and poet who spoke on how to live in harmony with the cosmos and on the value of honesty, to oneself and your suroundings. There were also a number of talks given by members of the organisation on other subjects including the use of pyramids for regeneration.



O. Polevchak (with the bag) discussing Ukraine's contribution to the space race.


A talk about the wonders of the Carpathian's.



Vasyl Kobilukh a noted Sanskritologist discussing the similarities of Sanskrit and Ukrainian languages.



Me and one of the guest lecturers, Maria Chumara, a poet and philosopher

a disussion about the use of embroydery as protection




















supper time provided by a Kozak group

Another talk was given by Volodymir Pylat, a founder of  "Boiovey Hopak" or Combat Hopak, a form of martial arts training where young boys and girls learn discipline as well as how to become better citizens.


sunrise on our way to Mt Gregit, and behind us is the final kilometer left to climb
 Part of the weekend included a hike up onto Mt. Gregit which is only about 1472 meters high to greet the morning sunrise.  We began climbing before 4 am and arrived at the top at about 5:30 am. As you can tell the sunrise caught us part way up, but the experience was exileration and exausting.
We were lucky that we went up in the morning as the daytime temp that day reached 28C by noon.
Mt. Gregit is one of four pyramid shaped  Mt's in the Ukrainian Carpathians and is regarded as must climb for those who believe in the power of pyramids.

Mt. flowers


more flowers

because of the roads, we were spread out for several km's


the road to the top


view from partway up



more to climb

the highest of the two peaks was our final destination



relaxing and cooling off after a hot climb


falls coming from the side into the river. these falls are15 m ( 48ft.) high.




Monday, May 16, 2011

Wedding season has begun!

Last weekend my wife and I attended the first of the many weddings which we have been invited to this year.
Weddings in Ukraine as in Canada are slowly including fewer and fewer guests and this is mainly because of the costs.  In the early 1990's I attended several weddings which saw several hundred guests but these days the norm is for less that 200 guests.  However, while weekending deep in the Carpathians Mt's last year, in a village of only 5-700 people, we were told that weddings there included all the villagers plus those who lived in the surrounding hills.  The wedding we attended last weekend included only about 160 guests.


Traditionally the groom and his family come to the brides home to take her to the wedding ceremony.
As part of the festivities the groom is expected to barter with her family for the hand of his future bride.  There is usually a comedic exchange where the brides family tries to exchange the bride with an older unmarried woman dressed as the bride but eventually he wins out and after a sum of money is paid he takes his prize to the wedding ceremony.










In Ukraine, a wedding must include a civil ceremony to be recognized as legal whereas the church ceremony, although almost always included, is not necessary. Because there is a ban on weddings during lent and other religious holidays there are few days left in the year which one can be married so this wedding we attended was on Sunday.




Although this couple are an exception the usual age of the bride is 17 years and he isn't much older.














There are usually two "Kolachi" or wedding breads, one is brought by the brides family and the other is from the grooms family while they also have a wedding cake at the head table.










The wedding party after the official ceremonies are over begins with sitting down to a meal. This takes place in a restaurant or the local club in larger centers.  In those villages where there are no facillities, temporary wooden floors are built and tents are set up over them and the guests are hosted under these tents.  The afternoon begins with sitting down to a meal and  we eat, drink and visit and eat, drink and visit some more. During the meal the bride and groom visit with all the guest who in turn drink a toast to their success and occationally some guests begin singing. 






The more traditional songs are of a well wishing or advice nature but since very few people know these songs they soon begin singing folk and contemporary songs. There are also calls for the bride and groom to kiss by either singing  or simply calling out "Hirko" or bitter in English meaning that they are to kiss to sweeten the party.









This "meal" carries on for several hours (since there is a strict law on drinking and driving very little drunkeness is seen at a Ukrainian wedding) when finally the dancing begins. 






In general the first meal took about 5-6 hours at which time we danced for about 2 hours and sat to eat and drink again but as the night progressed more time was spent dancing and less eating.  Although there is a high rate of alcoholism in Ukaine, at weddings very little is drunk and because so much food is consumed the alcohol is diluted by the food and as I said, one sees very few drunken people.







Because I had to drive home the next day we left around three in the morning but the party was still in full swing with enough food and drink to last till the next day.  One tradition that is still performed towards the end of the party is the mother of the groom removes the brides veil and replaces it with a kerchief  to represent that she excepts the bride into her family (matriarcal tradition or what?) After this the bride takes all the unmarried girls one by one to dance to pass on her good fortune to them and finally she dances with her mother as a final departure from her family.
At this time most older guests leave and the youth party till dawn.

The next wedding is to be here in Kolomaya at the end of the month so until then.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Христос Воскрес - Happy Easter


a typical yard full of flowers
  It is finally spring in Kolomaya.  We have been having an unusual spring with late snow-storms, strong cold wind-storms and cold rains but Vesna has overcome Winter and for the past few weeks the sun has been shining and warming the ground and the flowers are blooming.
flowering quince in our yard
a cherry plum in the city centre




Paska's for sale in the bazar




easter baskets

Blessing the Easter basket in the church yard

Easter baskets are blessed on saturday as well as sunday morning.





artificial flowers to decorate the graves





                                         Христос Воскрес                    Воістину Воскрес